Tuesday 21 February 2012

A good friend of mine...

... taught me to surf at my homebreak East Wittering in the South of England. Having not seen each other in a few years by chance meeting in our local Surf store he invited me along for a surf lesson that afternoon. By chance my mum had bought a second hand wetsuit at a nearby jumble sale. After making my way out to the beach break grasping for dear life onto his hand I managed to catch a few waves, in the white water maybe, and maybe not completely on both feet but I did catch a great big surf bug. The next weekend we found a gorgeous Mini Mal 7ft 4" (pictured below) and then obsession began, not just with surfing but also with boards. My bank balance has certainly taken the strain of this in the years since, as has my various storing spots. I now have boards stashed all over the world, some have been unfortunately left but not forgotten in various countries where money became scarce and airlines did not take to my flirtatious charm of trying to blag them on board, and the lucky ones which have made it home safely have taken pride of place mounted on walls and shelves around my house. Surfing has definitely taken over.

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